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“Why don’t we make a collection that can be as compact as possible?’” was the impulse that fueled Issey Miyake artistic director Satoshi Kondo for spring. He thought of the process of packing and unpacking garments, and the element of surprise and joy that can bring to people around the world, for this creative, versatile collection that’s wide-ranging, including dresses, trousers and technical outerwear.

Kondo thought of the construction of a baseball, for example: Cut it open, and there are two pieces that can be flattened. Similarly, many garments in his spring line can be unzipped or untied to become flat. His bonded polyester and cotton hoodie, for example, may be unzipped to create one piece of fabric that’s easy to fold up and carry.

A molded, seamless vest of cotton and polyester can be unzipped into two halves. Kondo called it an “experimental piece.” Some looks are made with cotton and ramie fabric with a colorful room-design print, while other garments riff from this “temporary room” motif.

Issey Miyake RTW Spring 2021

41 Photos 

“It was really the idea of playing around with the construction of each piece and garment,” explained Kondo, adding they might be flattened or come housed in a small pouch.

He also had in mind how garments are displayed, and so collapsible mannequins, made of light small plastic tubes, are to be used this season in showrooms.

The video presenting the spring collection was shot in a warehouse outside of Tokyo, which serves as a gallery today.

“The reason why we picked this space is the warehouse symbolized this idea of storing, packing and shipping things, and it’s really in synergy with the collection,” said Kondo. “

To do that, mixed into the film of models walking through the gallery, is stop-motion video playfully showing the construction and deconstruction of each garment. Kondo hopes this different vantage point makes people think of the fashion as artwork, and not only something to stuff easily in a suitcase.

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